23/3/2006

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The Wrap Up

Hi everyone. Remember me? It's been a while...

I've been putting off writing this last update, in the hope that I would be able to do it from a (rented) house of my very own, but it's turned out to be a little more difficult to find a good place than we first thought.

This will be the last instalment of Nerd's Eye View. It'll be a bit long (ok, it's turned out to be way long), but if you've been saving yourself up to finally read one in full (as I know many of you haven't before), this is your chance :).

So, time has marched on.... and it's been nearly two months since the last post; talk about slack!

Compared to the prior 9 months, these last two have been relatively unexciting, and the pace of life (in terms of how full the days are) has definitely backed off a notch or 10.

So, the executive summary: We're staying at Jana's cousin's place while we look for a place to rent. Sylvie has a 3-and-a-lot year old called Ashra, who is good entertainment (most of the time :)).

Apart from hanging around here with a small child climbing all over me, and looking at rental houses, we've been pretty relaxed. I've gone back to training, and my fitness is slowly being clawed back.

Other highlights from the past month:

And that's it. Adjusting back into so-called normal life has been a pretty gradual process, and given the difficulty we've had in finding a decent place to live it's made for a terrific anticlimax. But that's ok, post travelling blues are to be expected, and I'm fairly malleable when it comes to life at the moment.

In the meantime, Nerd's Eye View is long overdue for a wrap-up. So, in no particular order, some random thoughts and statistics on the trip:

Time on the road:

9 months.

Kilometres driven:

About 35000. This is quite an achievement considering that doing a straight lap of the country on the main highway is around about 10000kms, give or take a couple of thousand. Just goes to show that all the little detours add up! This figure also means that I burned about 3500 litres of petrol (and tens of litres of oil, before my engine change). When I met up with Jana, we started keeping track of expenses, and since then we averaged $10 each and every day on petrol.

Kilometres ridden:

Not sure, due to the whole bike-stealing incident messing up my statistics. I think the figure is around 900-1100kms. This sounds impressive, but is actually really rather pathetic given it's over 9 months. :) Mind you - it's still a couple of tanks of fuel saved!

Photos taken:

Nearly 17000. The figures leapt when I bought the zoom lens and started using continuous shooting mode a lot more. :)

Photos actually kept:

About 8300. Many of these are decidedly average, or too stupid for publication. Only about 3800 actually made it onto the website, but of course I kept the rest anyway. We all have to horde something in life, and I choose data.

Emails sent:

34, including this one.

Words written:

44000. If you've actually read them all, award yourself an Iced Vo-vo (and an appointment with the optometrist). :) There's also another 20000 words in my diary, but thankfully that claptrap that will never see the light of day. So it's little wonder that the most used keys on my laptop have developed little shiny patches.

Animals killed:

No doubt tens of thousands, if you include insects. Invertebrates aside though, I hit about 6 birds and 2 bobtail lizards. Almost all of these were pretty much unavoidable, barring one or two when I really should have been paying more attention.

Thankfully, I never hit anything larger, mostly due to the simple strategy of avoiding driving at dusk/dawn/night whenever possible, and doing sensible speeds in higher risk areas. It just goes to show that killing animals on the road is almost completely avoidable (unless you are driving a road train, which is why I could never do that for a job), so there's really very little excuse for the disgustingly high amount of roadkill in this country.

It really pisses me off, especially in national parks, to see dead animals that someone hasn't even bothered to move off the road. Apart from the complete lack of respect that it entails, it endangers other animals that might come onto the road to scavenge.

Anyway, on to more cheerful topics. :)

Longest time without a shower:

About three days, when we were out in the Pilbara, however, we did swim in gorgeous gorges almost every day, so it doesn't really count. Similarly, when we were exploring Ningaloo Reef, we didn't shower (there weren't any in the park), but we were snorkelling almost every day. This was in fact worse though, as you end up covered in itchy salt and your hair gets quite foul.

Most amusing road sign:

Probably this one. I love the fact that there is no petrol available for a greater distance than the span of many, if not most, European countries.

Items "used up", lost, broken, stolen or generally kaput:

Favourite place:

This is probably the most common question I get asked, before people lose interest and start talking about the weather, sport, themselves and so on (a phenomenon that most travellers will be familiar with - it's not just that I'm a boring speaker :)). To be honest, I don't have any one place in mind, although I did love the Wolfe Creek crater somewhat disproportionately (and I still haven't seen the movie).

Overall, I'd have to say that anywhere more remote was nice; the top end, NT and WA. In particular the Kimberley and the Pilbara are pretty damn awesome. They're also the furthest places to get to from the east coast. Anyway, it's a totally different country when you get up north, and away from the east coast. It makes you appreciate the ridiculous size of this country too.

And whilst on the subject, some random thoughts on the various Australian states and territories, in the order that I visited them, plus some of my favourite pictures. In case you wonder at my bizarre selections, these pics are not necessarily anything to do with the places; they're just some of my personal favs.


Queensland.

Redneck capital of Australia (frighteningly so in places. Half this state still thinks it lives in the 60s. This is not a good thing). Gorgeous rainforest, beaches to die for. Sunshine, amazing snorkelling and diving. Serious indigenous drinking problems. Really lousy mobile coverage away from the east coast. Pleasant grey nomads. Backpackers galore, some cool travellers, but also many useless partying 18 year olds travelling on mummy and daddy's money. Shoddy roads.

An amazing sunset on Great Keppel Island
An amazing sunset on Great Keppel Island
Mists in the caravan park, Rockhampton, at 3am
Mists in the caravan park, Rockhampton, at 3am
Charters Towers was a bit of a hole, but the old Stock Exchange building is pretty
Charters Towers was a bit of a hole, but the old Stock Exchange building is pretty
Fire twirling at Mission Beach backpackers. Hopefully the place is still there (a cyclone just hit the area)
Fire twirling at Mission Beach backpackers. Hopefully the place is still there (a cyclone just hit the area)
Just too damn tired to get up - part of the old smelter at Chillagoe
Just too damn tired to get up - part of the old smelter at Chillagoe

The Northern Territory.

Empty. Flat. Amazing. Empty (ok, not really, just devoid of people). Far less serious alcohol issues, however plenty of issues remain nonetheless. Laid back, down to earth. Better roads, but less of them.

The Devil's Marbles at dawn
The Devil's Marbles at dawn
Mindil Beach in Darwin turns on a great sunset
Mindil Beach in Darwin turns on a great sunset
As does Kakadu :)
As does Kakadu :)
Magpie Geese. 400,000 of them once destroyed a rice crop in the Kimberley
Magpie Geese. 400,000 of them once destroyed a rice crop in the Kimberley

Western Australia.

Enormous. Ancient. Remote. Old fashioned at times, but not redneckingly so (with the possible exception of certain southern areas). The indigenous people living outside the cities seem to have their shit together much more so than in other states. Northern WA is another world altogether. It's a serious must-see if you haven't already been. Amazing coastline all the way from the top to the bottom. The bluest water I've ever seen - great diving too although a little chilly at times! There is far, far more I could say about WA, it's such an enormous and diverse place. The best idea I think is to re-read the appropriate emails. :)

An ancient Boab in the Kimblerley
An ancient Boab in the Kimblerley
My favourite shiny road train at dawn in the Kimberley
My favourite shiny road train at dawn in the Kimberley
Wolfe Creek meteorite crater
Wolfe Creek meteorite crater
A Spinifex Pigeon in the Pilbara
A Spinifex Pigeon in the Pilbara
Feeding time for baby swallows
Feeding time for baby swallows
Making tracks at the Pinnacles
Making tracks at the Pinnacles
An imposing building in the monastery town of New Norcia
An imposing building in the monastery town of New Norcia
Two Dugites getting very friendly with each other on Rottnest Island
Two Dugites getting very friendly with each other on Rottnest Island
Amazing silver bark
Amazing silver bark
A male Splendid Wren, possibly the bluest creature on earth
A male Splendid Wren, possibly the bluest creature on earth

South Australia.

Disappointing. Large and largely empty. Environmental disaster area in places. Somewhat overrated (barring the Flinders ranges, and a few other spots which were fantastic). Adelaide is pretty, but for some reason I didn't take much of a shine to it. There is also a lot of amazing coastline, more of which warrants exploration one day.

I love the variety of perils depicted on this warning sign
I love the variety of perils depicted on this warning sign
Sap oozes from a trimmed fallen tree in Mount Remarkable National Park
Sap oozes from a trimmed fallen tree in Mount Remarkable National Park

Victoria.

Mad Max country roads. Greenery. More fantastic coastline. Culture. I didn't really get to see a lot of Vic - I'm sure I'll return one day and cover it properly. Melbourne is great of course; and the Dandenong Ranges and Grampians were also quite lovely.

Koala Claws
Koala Claws
Lovely mounted butterflies in the Melbourne Museum
Lovely mounted butterflies in the Melbourne Museum
Penelope's back yard in The Dandenongs
Penelope's back yard in The Dandenongs
Visual confusion in Melbourne
Visual confusion in Melbourne

Tasmania.

Beautiful and tragic. Total environmental disaster area in many places, particularly the west. Second most redneck state, bowing only to Queensland. Cold. Mossy and damp, in a pleasing way. Quite European in some way, although still definitely Australian. Lovely waterfalls and rainforest.

Climbing Henty Dunes
Climbing Henty Dunes
Hogarth Falls
Hogarth Falls
Tasmania abounds in lovely fungi
Tasmania abounds in lovely fungi
Waters mixing in a tidal outflow, Launceston
Waters mixing in a tidal outflow, Launceston
Bass Strait on an amazingly calm day
Bass Strait on an amazingly calm day

Australian Capital Territory (Canberra).

Boring as batshit, but kinda pretty from the air. Smells like liar when parliament is sitting. And my fantabulous sister lives there of course, so it's gotta have something going for it.

Parliament House, Canberra. Nice building, pity about the occupants
Parliament House, Canberra. Nice building, pity about the occupants

New South Wales.

Having gown up in Sydney, and done a lot of traipsing up and down the coast, I've still yet to explore the western part of NSW. Sydney itself is a gorgeous city, let down only by it's ridiculous cost of living and even more ridiculous traffic situation. Of course it's a must-see on any visit to Oz, but it's totally not the be-all and end-all it makes itself out to be.

Fire and regeneration in the Snowy Mountains
Fire and regeneration in the Snowy Mountains
Wentworth Falls through a fisheye. I gotta get me one sometime
Wentworth Falls through a fisheye. I gotta get me one sometime

So that's that. Before I go, a few final words and comments in general.

First of all, if you have any sort of interest in the photos I've taken, and you've never actually been to my website, I really think you should go and waste some time there. The links above all take you to this email's corresponding page on my site, as attaching that many pictures wouldn't have been kind to Alan (whom I have to thank once again for letting me load test his mail server every week).

There are also maps of every step of the journey on the site, like the one attached. For anyone who's interested, you can download a saved set of these track points from here: http://www.truffulatree.com.au/files/nerdseyeview/NerdsEyeView.redirector.html, and load this file into Google Earth. For those of you who've never tried playing with Google Earth, it's very, very cool, and by downloading my track you can follow a bird's eye view of the nerd's eye view. You will waste hours zooming and tilting!

Over the next month or so I'll also be redoing a fair bit of my site - so do check back from time to time (assuming you give a hoot or two). Also, when you're there, please check out the ads. If they're relevant and you click, this gives me free money. I'm facing the prospect of having to find some sort of real job again at some stage, and every little bit of avoidance helps.

On this subject (grovelling and avoiding real work in general), I'm looking into expanding my tech writing, and trying to flog some of my photos (to departments of tourism, and image archives in general)... so, if anyone of you knows someone who might be interested, or has any suggestions, or just plain wants to give me money for nothing (we can all dream, can't we?), please feel free to get in touch with me, or pass on my details to whoever might care. I'm also available to do IT consulting of pretty much any kind (websites in particular). So share the love. It would mean a lot to me.

Apart from that, there's not much else to say. It's been nice to have everyone looking over my shoulder while I travel. Hopefully it's been nice for you too. If you're interested in staying in touch, all you have to do it click "reply". ;)

Until next time, adios!



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